Vegetarian Fine Dining Gets a Fresh Start: Cookies Cream Embraces "Insane Marvelous" Culinary Experiences
In the heart of Mitte, Cookies Cream continues to captivate diners with its unique blend of industrial Berlin-club ambiance and warm service. Since 2007, the restaurant has been a vegetarian establishment, but under its new head chef, Nicholas Hahn, it has expanded its culinary horizons.
Nicholas Hahn took over the kitchen at Cookies Cream in 2023, replacing Stephan Hentschel who left after 15 years to pursue his own projects. Hahn brings a diverse culinary background to the table, having worked at Michelin-starred First Floor and serving trattoria-style Italian fare in Palatine.
Hahn's philosophy is to create reduced, tasteful, and visually appealing dishes. This philosophy is evident in his signature dish, a love letter to red peppers. The dish features a roasted pepper tartare-like base, roasted pepper ice cream, pepper chips, and roasted pepper skin powder.
One of the standout dishes on Hahn's menu is the potato ceviche. This innovative creation has an otherworldly allure, with its crisp, raw texture and the vinegar's effect on the potato's essence. The potato ceviche is served with a Peruvian-style leche de tigre sauce, adding a tangy kick to the dish.
The potato ceviche's unique texture is reminiscent of eating a radish rather than a potato. This is achieved through Hahn's innovative culinary techniques, such as blanching and pseudo-pickling potatoes in rice wine vinegar.
Owner Heinz "Cookie" Gindullis describes Hahn's menu as "paintings on plates." The new menu at Cookies Cream is avant-garde and not strictly inspired by a single cuisine. It offers an original selection, both for vegetarians and vegans, as well as meat and fish eaters.
Cookies Cream does not prioritize sourcing the most local produce, but aims to source produce close to Berlin. This approach allows for a rotating selection of dishes, with new offerings swapping in and out seasonally.
The restaurant's philosophy remains opposed to lazy vegetarian dishes, with no pasta, rice, or tofu on the menu. Instead, Hahn's menu offers a unique wine and non-alcoholic drink pairing, featuring outlandish house-made drinks that complement the innovative flavours of his dishes.
Whether you're a regular or a first-time visitor, Cookies Cream under Hahn's leadership continues to push the boundaries of vegetarian and vegan cuisine, offering a dining experience that is as visually stunning as it is delicious.
